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RE: [ihc] Clutch setup w/throwout Q's



Joel,

Sorry my post sounded a little disconnected.  I was in a hurry and
didn't re-read it before sending.  

I wanted to add that I only had one IH in my immediate possession at the
time so there was no opportunity to mix up parts.  The clutch that came
out was an 11 incher and the one I put in was a 12 incher.  Otherwise
all pieces were the same.  Maybe the difference is 11 vs. 12, not big
truck vs. little.  I guess all I can really say is that the new clutch
was built to require more movement to release.  I considered shortening
the arm on the outside of the bellhousing, or at least moving the
attachment point, so that I would get more motion from the TO bearing.
Imagine trying to do that without dropping everything back down.  That
is why I spaced the attachment point away from the firewall. Kindof an
experiment to see if it would work.  It did.  If I have the occasion to
have the bellhousing out of the truck, I may make a shorter attachment
on the arm.  To use the clutch now, I really have to lift my leg pretty
high to get on top of the pedal. At 6' 2" and 260, I'm borderline too
big to fit in an 800 anyway.  My knee about hits the bottom of the
steering wheel to get to the clutch.

My point is that you may not have done anything wrong and you may have
to get creative to get it to work.  You may have to alter the length of
a lever or two to get the stroke you need.  Or take the clutch back out.
It seems like there are 2 or 3 fulcrum positions on the PP.  Alter at
your own risk.   


Ed Sohm
Battle Creek, IA 

'71 800 B
'74 200 4X4 Travelette Camper Special
+ a bunch more

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ed
Sohm
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 5:12 PM
To: 'Joel M Brodsky'; [email protected]
Subject: RE: [ihc] Clutch setup w/throwout Q's


Joel, 

I have a theory.  I believe that a clutch set up for a Loadstar is
different than a clutch set up for a Scout.  I believe that the ones set
up for a Scout take less movement (stroke) than the ones for an SV in a
truck.  
Shortly after I bought my 800, the pilot bearing disintegrated and I
ended up with chunks of metal embedded in my clutch.  I bought a NEW
clutch and PP from CarQuest.  When I got it all together, I couldn't get
it to release.  So I adjusted and got it to the point where it wouldn't
engage.  I could never get it to a point where it would both release and
engage, didn't have enough stroke.  I don't know how familiar you are
with late 800s ('71), but mine has a cable clutch.   To get it to work,
I ended up spacing the cable attachment point out away from the firewall
which raises the pedal higher off the floor so I have a bunch more
stroke before the pedal hits the floor.  Sounds cheesy, I know.  Looks
funny because the clutch pedal is nowhere near in line with the brake
pedal, but it works.  

The TO bearing contacts the buttons.  The buttons are on the arms.  The
arms pivot on a fulcrum to overcome the springs that apply pressure to
the PP.  It has been too long, but I believe that the pivot it either in
a different place or the arms are different.  The result is that more
stroke is needed to release the clutch.  

I'm going from memory from '98 I think.  It seem as though I compared
the new and the old.

Ed Sohm
Battle Creek, IA 

'71 800 B
'74 200 4X4 Travelette Camper Special
+ a bunch more
  

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Joel M Brodsky
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 2:26 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [ihc] Clutch setup w/throwout Q's


Steve,
      Could this be why my clutch is now adjusted all the way and I
still
only have like 1/4" of movement at the fork?  3/4" from the throwout
brg!?
My Scout II is still down until I figure out why I have no clutch action
in
that truck.  Replaced everything but something is amiss.

JoelB

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 08:01:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Steven Stegmann <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [ihc] Clutch setup

Also watch out for the carrier for the throwout bearing.  It comes in
two
lengths short and long and the difference is around 3/4 inch.  Both will
work but you really want the longer one for the 345.  BTW both the short
and the long have the same part number.  I confirmed that with SSS and
my
local parts shop.

Steve


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