Re: [ihc] cold start problem (was Re: 13" clutches...)

["Ryan Moore" <baradium@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "T.R.E.Jr." <T_R_E_Jr@domain.elided>
To: "John M. Adams" <jma@domain.elided>
Cc: <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2003 00:45
Subject: [ihc] cold start problem (was Re: 13" clutches...)


> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "John M. Adams" <jma@domain.elided>
> Subject: RE: [ihc] 13" clutches ...I think it is possible
>
> <snip>
> > ... Another consideration:
> > When it's very cold, I have to sit there with the clutch depressed
> > during engine warm-up for a couple of minutes. If I let it out too soon,
> > it will kill the engine. I always figured that was due to the size
> > and weight of the assembly (but could be wrong - do you all have this
> > problem?). On another side note: after I get the engine and the clutch
> > going OK, I then warm up the tranny with the t-case in neutral. It can
> > take me 30 minutes to warm up my truck in the winter!
>
> ---When I was up in Michigan, I would normally experience winter nights
> from -20 degrees and below. At times, it could even be -40 and rarely -60
> with wind-chill. It would take a good 30 minutes to warm up the truck,
that
> is not abnormal IMHO. The owners manuals state that you should allow the
> vehicle to warm up so the oil will flow properly anyway (not an actual
> "quote").
>
> ---What I think your problem may be is that the throwout bearing is too
far
> forward in adjustment and the bearing surface is touching the
levers/fingers
> on the pressure plate. The correct gap between the two is 3/32", but it
> wouldn't surprise me if the cold was causing the metal and/or grease to
> expand and making the distance shorter. Still, I would think that there is
a
> need to take up a little slack in the linkage.
>

Um.... cold causes metal to contract... however the contracting could make
the distance shorter, but with the temperature range we are talking about, I
don't know how much movement it could be...

> ---One problem that I had a while back, was that the holes in the yokes of
> the linkage were elongated. When I did was drill them out, making mine
1/2",
> then getting some 1/2" stock, cutting it to the correct width (1/4" IIRC)
> and drilling the center out to 3/8" to accept the sheer pins. I had in
> short, created bushings. That cured the problem I had with slop in the
pedal
> (depressing the pedal 1/2" before creating any movement in the throwout
> bearing).
>
<snip>

great idea... don't think I would've thought of doing something like that...
I'm not all that good at fabbing stuff either...

-Ryan