RE: Final Interior Plans

["Farmer" <pharmer@domain.elided>]

Tom wrote:

> Farmer wrote:
> > 2.  Beadblast entire interior to remove all existing paint
> >     - SHOULD I REMOVE TOP & HAVE SHOP BLAST RAIL ALSO?
>
> Have you had the top off yet?  Check the passenger rear corner for rust
> on the rail.. Rail?  What rail?
>
> Anyone ever replace theirs?  The top of my passenger quarter panel, to
> the rear, is GONE.  Of the 3 rearmost bolts, only the middle (to the
> front) bolt is there... thus the rear bracket for my soft-top is held on
> by one bolt.  The rest rusted away.

I'm eager to take mine off.  The only time it was off was when the dishonest
body guys took it off to make repairs.  And, they put it back on before I
got there, so I never actually saw it off! |-(

>
> >     - Will also paint fender interiors.  Not sure how to control paint
> > thickness.
>
> Will POR really hold up *that* well to rock chipping?  Durabak sure
> seemed like a good product for the inner fenders..

I think POR will do fine.  I've had to grind it off steel, and it sticks
really well if the prep is good.  In fact, I think that you'd have to
sandblast it to get it off of rust.  But - I was planning on putting it in
behind the kickplates, and *inside* the rear fenders via my speaker holes.
The problem is that since I can't see in there, I'll probably end up missing
some spots and have a 1/4" puddle at the bottom.  That probably won't cure
well.  Hmmmm, maybe I need a drain hole first.  I could partially resolve
this problem by spraying it, but it's too toxic for me to spray.

Durabak is pretty durable also - as long as it sticks to the steel.  It
depends on a primer for that adhesion.  I think that POR-15 gives you a
chemical bond that beats the mechanical bond that you'd get from Durabak & a
primer.  Feel free to correct me if this sounds wrong - I don't know much
about paint!


>
> > 7.  This will provide me with painted door interiors (I'll be using some
> > steel door panels), painted sides, and a rubber/vinyl floor.  Any other
> > suggestions for the interior sides?
>
> Some type of Dynamat on the backside of the door panels?  Just to kill
> noise.

Right.  I'll be using the much cheaper roofing insulation equivilant ($70
for something like 280 sq feet at Home Depot vs Dynamat which costs about as
much as gold, pound for pound).  I'll want to get some adhesive to glue the
matts to the steel.  Not sure what to use, Dynamat also sells an adhesive.
Of course, it costs an arm & a leg for their stupid re-labeled glue.  I
think it came to something like $30 to get enough to do a scout.

Any suggestions on where to get the vinyl cover for the rubber mat?  I don't
think the rubber matt has the abrasian resistance necessary to leave it
uncovered.  Plus, it's black.  Perhaps an auto-restoration place would have
something to show me.


> Bikini is cheap n' quick.. but your neck gets cold FAST at night!

Yeah, especially if you take it up in the mountains.  But, what the heck,
I'll probably start with that: everytime I see a Scout with almost no top I
break into a big grin and my wife has to slap me.



ken farmer
pharmer@domain.elided