Re: Oil Leak

[EldonMcf@domain.elided]

In a message dated 3/15/99 10:27:05 AM Central Standard Time,
Steve.Stegmann@domain.elided writes:

> Guys,
>  
>  I'm searching for an oil leak.  I stopped the leaking pressure sender with
a
>  new one, same pressure readings, no leaks.
>  
>  Next lets turn to the rear of the engine.  Take off the front flywheel
>  cover, and the throwout bearing inspection plate.  there's oil dripping
from
>  the cast block to which the clutch pedal fork attaches.  I imagine this is
>  coming from the transmission, it looks like the 50w I just put in there.   
>  
>  I should say here that the entire inside of the clutch housing from the
>  engine to the transmission is wet with oil, always has been.
>  
>  There's oil leaking from the back of the engine.  I'm leaning toward the
oil
>  pan gasket, every other gasket seems to leak except the head gaskets.  I
>  inspected the rear main as well as I could, can't really get to it, pretty
>  tight fit.  I worked a piece of clean paper toweling between the flywheel
>  mounting hub and the rear main bearing and it came out clean & dry. (The
>  front main is also dry) The flywheel has had some oil, or liquid on it at
>  one time or another, it isn't perfectly clean, but then it seems "way" too
>  dry to account for all the leakage back there. It looks the same as it did
>  when I last looked in here a year ago.
>  
>   I've noticed that if the oil pan gasket leaks back there, it will drip
down
>  inside the front flywheel cover plate, and then the wind from the clutch
and
>  flywheel can easily whip it arount in there.  BTW the starter gears, and
the
>  clutch side of the flywheel are dusty dry.
>  
>  Any comments?  I'm way to lazy to replace the rear main unless I *really*
>  need to.



   Steve, 

    Instead of  just taking a stab at all the possible things that could be
leaking, you need to determine what is leaking, and repair it.  I does sound
like you could have more than one thing leaking too.

   Here's how I would try to isolate the problem.   Go to your favorite parts
store and get a couple of areosol cans of brake parts cleaner.  this cleaner
is kind of a solvent in a can.  use the cleaner to clean the area between the
flywheel, and the engine real good, also clean the area in the bellhousing
good too, and you can probably clean the back of the heads & block from
underneath also.  be sure to do this in a well ventilated area, and if you are
working on the driveway put some cardboard, or newspapers down to keep the
solvent / oil /grease from making a mess.

   Next check / clean the vent on the top cover of your transmission, if it is
plugged it will cause oil to be forced past the seals when as the transmission
heats up, and the oil expands.  Also check / replace the pcv valve, and hose
to the manifold.  If the pcv is plugged, or stuck it can also cause engine oil
to be forced past gaskets, and seals.  You also might try to tighten the pan
bolts.

   Next go for a road test.  when you get back carefully inspect the area
between the flywheel & block, and look for signs of fresh oil.  Any fresh oil
would indicate a leak from the pan gasket, rear main bearing cap seals, or the
rear seal itself.  you should be able to see where the fresh oil is coming
from.   If ther is fresh oil on the clutch pressure plate, it would have to be
coming from the transmission.  If you examine the oil closely, you should be
able to tell were it came from, the transmission oil should be pretty clean,
while the engine oil tends to get discolored some.

     By using the process of elimination you should be able to determine
exactly what you need to repair to take care of your oil leak(s)




>  
>  How much clearance do I need between the axle and the front part of the oil
>  pan to get the oil pan out without disconnecting the axle?  I have a 2"
>  skyjacker which works out to 4" of lift in the front and 3" in the back
>  based upon Eldons ride height information.
>  
>  Thanks,
>  
>  Steve


   good luck


   Eldon McFarling
   Ceresco, NE