Re: 800 disk brakes

[Doug Rasmussen <76075.2276@domain.elided>]

Gregg wrote:
>this message goes out to anyone with knowledge but doug rasmussen in
particular.  i have my 68 800 halfway to disks.  i used scout 2 rotors
and chevy calipers. (800 bearings fit in scout 2 hubs)  my question is
i have a scout 2 master cylinder and proportioning valve off of a drum
brake scout 2.
need i switch to the disk brake proportioning valve.  also do the
lines for the chevy work the same way as the scout--out of the valve
to a a junction where the line splits.  also, how did you get the
lines to attach to the chevy hoses.<

I'm using the stock 800 master cylinder.   The idea behind using a
proportioning valve is to get the relative braking percentages about 60%
front, 40% rear.  If you find your rig isn't locking up the rear wheels on
heavy braking maybe you can leave everything as is.  If the rear wheels
seem to be doing more than their share of the braking, put an adjustable
proportioning valve in the rear line.  The adjustable proportioning valve
is a flow restrictor.

I hooked the Chev rubber hoses right up in place of the original Scout
lines.  The threads were the same.  My calipers/backing plates/lines are
off a '75-'76 Chev pu.

If you use the stock drum brake M/C,  remove the residual pressure valve
from the front line.  The valve is a little ball and spring thing behind
the big nut where the line comes off the M/C.  It's important  to remove
the valve if you're using a drum M/C.  Otherwise the calipers won't release
and the shoes'll drag on the rotor.

In summary, you should be able to get a good working set of brakes with all
your stock 800 stuff.  Leave your stock M/C (with the residual pressure
valve removed) and  proportioning valve in place and try it.   I don't see
much point in switching M/C's.  My stock one works just fine. 

Let me know if you've got more questions.  Once you've got the backing
plates & calipers mounted, the rest is easy.

Doug