Re: Still need questions answered

["Jason and Maria Colavecchia" <jasoncolavecchia@domain.elided>]

ALLRIGHT...


IMHO, I would stick to Scout calipers and stuff, but the Ford stuff seems
to work fine for those that have done it. I would only switch the front if
I was to convert the rear brakes to disc.

I run 31's now with a V304.  Its pretty sluggish with the stock 3.07
gearing, especially when pulling a trailer.  IH had a great chart which
showed which rear ratios it recommended for the kind of operation you were
doing, but I think you need to increase all the numbers slightly to
accomodate for larger-than stock tires.  I suppose a general rule of thum
is to add .50 to the rear ratio to overcome the increase in roadspeed with
31" tires (from the stock 28's)  IMHO, go with 3.73:1 gearing, which will
give you good trail speed control and torque, but won't run the engine out
on the highway. In my case, 4.09's will be the ones I'll get, because I
also plan to go up to 33" tires.

I should mention I'm not a demon for speed on the highway. 4.09:1 gearing
would let me cruise around at a modest rate without killing my fuel
mileage.  for me, fuel mileage has just as much to do with HOW you drive as
WHAT you drive.

If you are thinking of adding some kind of traction-adding device, try to
stay away from systems that provide 100 percent traction all of the time. 
I say this because of your use of the scout, which is on the highway alot. 
Depending on your winters, you may want to either leave it open or go with
the ARB..these two systems are probably the SAFEST (ie dont use the ARB
when driving in snow, unless you are stuck or going REALLY REALLY slow). 
Stay away from lockers unless you are definitely not in an area that gets
alot of snow, otherwise you will be limited for safety reasons to 4x4 only
at very low speeds.  Lockers are also hard on components, as there is no
slippage allowed, whatsover.  If the cost of an ARB scares you, and you
still want some extra traction, consider using something like the Detroit
Tru-Trac or, possibly more cost effectively, the Powr-Loc or Trac-Loc.  I
prefer the Powr-Loc, as it doesn't wear out its clutches as quickly as the
Trac-Loc.  The Detroit Tru-Trac is somewhat power-limited, and the last
thing you need is something grenading up front on the trail or otherwise. 
At least the limited slips keep you from over-torquing an axleshaft or
u-joint, unlike the "lockers."  My 2 cents:  I'd rather get stuck and winch
myself out than break something major...

One last suggestion:  replace as many wearable items as you can, and if a
bigger/better/stronger part is available, put it in...(i.e. larger
u-Joints, etc)


Jason and Maria Colavecchia
1979 IH Scout II,  V304, modifications ongoing
1969 IH 1210D Travelall 3/4 ton, V345,  restoring slowly

----------
: From: Paul Brakefield <Dirtball@domain.elided>
: To: ihc@domain.elided
: Subject: Still need questions answered
: Date: Monday, September 07, 1998 9:57 PM
: 
: OK folks, I'm getting a complex here.  The only responses I got to my
: questions about my front 44 in my garage were to ask why I wanted to go
: with 31s instead of 33s on my Scout.  Do you guys mean to tell me that
NONE
: of you have an opinion on building this thing?  My biggest question is
: this: since I have to go with new rotors and calipers anyway, can/should
I
: switch to some cheaper or more readily available, or should I get Scout
: pieces?  Aren't there Ford rotors and calipers that will fit and which
will
: be more "findable" in my local wrecking yards (I've called around and no
: one has Scouts).  Are Scout calipers available new?  What gear ratio
would
: you go with if you were going to go with 31s and run it to and on trails?
: This truck gets driven A LOT on the road.  It has a 345/727/D20 combo and
: 3.31s now.
: 
: