Re: TravelAll Stuff Continued -

To: [email protected], [email protected]
Subject: Re: TravelAll Stuff Continued -
From: [email protected]
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 19:11 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]
Content-type: MULTIPART/MIXED; BOUNDARY="Boundary_(ID_NYxE6fcTH63eO1NVeOmVDA)"
Reply-To: [email protected]
Sender: [email protected]


     Scot,
     
        For the spring bushings, you need 1974 Dodge D200 3/4T 4x4 spring 
     bushings,and you'll have to remove the shoulders as IH uses no 
     shoulders on their bushings, they may fit with the Dodge ones as the 
     shoulders are 1/8".
     
        Nearly impossible to convert to a manual motor unless you can find 
     a 1973 Suburban with a rear manual gate donor assembly.
     
        If the window works at all with the motor, then it's ok.  If it 
     goes up and down, then there is a motor in it.  It sounds like the 
     tracks and rails inside are dirty.  Take the interior panel off from 
     the inside while the window is up, and lube everything that looks like 
     it moves.  I use Lithium grease spray to primary lube, then Mobil 1 
     syn grease for the rest.  I choose Mobil since it doesn't harden in 
     the cold.  The springs that help the window UP may be shot too!  If it 
     goes down like a banshee and has to be helped up then the springs are 
     bad.  REMEMBER, IF YOU ARE GOING TO REMOVE THE MOTOR, DO IT WITH THE 
     WINDOW ACTUATORS IN THE UP POSITION!  IF THEY ARE IN THE DOWN 
     POSITION, WHEN THE MOTOR IS REMOVED FROM THE REGULATOR, THE ARMS WILL 
     SPRING UP AND CUT YOUR FINGERS OFF!  I WAS LUCKY, ONLY LARGE SLICES OF 
     MEAT FROM FINGERS MISSING!!!!!
     
        Sorry for the caps, but it is very important!  The entire assembly 
     will come out of the gate while down, first lower the gate with the 
     window down, the remove the inner panel, remove the clips on the 
     actuator rails, the slide the window glass out of the gate.  Set the 
     glass aside carefully, far away from the work area.  Then work the 
     actuator rods to the UP position so there is no stress in the springs. 
      Then remove the regulator assembly, and then remove the three screws 
     that hold the motor in.  You can dismantle the motor, and spare parts 
     are the same as the windshield wiper motor.  Clean the commutators and 
     brushes lube the bearings (not so much that it flings grease 
     internally) and then re-assemble.  The motor should work with the dash 
     switch regardless of the gate position if you hold the safety switch 
     closed.
     
        front and rear spring bushings should be the same, and your truck 
     should have the springs OVER the axles from the factory.  Is this 
     different?  I can get the numbers off my 1/2T shocks with spring over, 
     and the shock numbers for mine after I did the 3/4T springs and Dick 
     Cepek shocks in back.
     
        Hope this helps, and let me know.
     

     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727 RE8000, Cibie40s, custom 
                rear tire rack, 6 different color body panels.
                Not much sport, all utility.
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727 Hummer brush guard, 
                3/4T rear springs, Hella Rallye 2000s, Con-Ferr 5x7,
                Class IV hitches front and rear, 3" Exhaust.
                1st Place, Rocky Mountain IH Rendezvous,
                3rd Place, Tulare IH Western Regionals.
         '74 IHC Travelall 150? 2wd 392/tf727 "The 'new' one"
                Factory AM/FM, Cruise, Tilt, AC, Captains Chairs.

-----INCLUDED MESSAGE FOLLOWS-----



______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: TravelAll Stuff Continued -
Author:  [email protected] at mime
Date:    9/24/98 6:00 PM


...'69 TravelAll, 345, 4.09, 5 spOD, PowrLok, 4x4, etc....
     
ok...anyone got any ideas with my TravelAll tailgate glass deal? It appears to
   be an
electric one that is missing the motor. Can it be converted easily to manual,
   etc.?
What's the "best" way to go to fix the window problem? It just moves up and down
with "manual" help, but will not stay in one place securely.
     
...and got my 3/4 ton springs today, what kind of poly spring bushings will work
again? Noticed fronts and rear are quite different!
     
...and who has done the rear shackle flip-over thing? Any ideas how much lift it
will add?
     
Thanks in advance
     
---Scot
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
http://home.swbell.net/bindersc/stand.htm 
Just Scout'n Around - Wichita, KS
They'll take your Diamonds, then give you Steel! - Ronnie James Dio


RFC-822-headers:
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 20:00:42 -0500
From: Scot Clayton <[email protected]>
Subject: TravelAll Stuff Continued -
Reply-to: [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]
Message-id: <[email protected]>
Organization: Just Scout'n Around / USAF - Outdoor Recreation
MIME-version: 1.0
References: <[email protected]>

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