[E30] 325is Hard Start, Fuel Pumps, and SI Batteries. [LONGISH]

[Jason Cammisa <jcammisa@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hey gang,
	You may or may not remember me; I posted these very same questions to the
digest about six months ago. This all relates to my internet-challenged
friend Eric, who, despite his lack of net access, drives a great car.  He's
got an 1987 325is with 75k on it, black with tan leather, and literally in
showroom new condition. (You can see it on my site actually, at
http://members.aol.com/rocco16v in the Photos section... it's a great shot;
Eric is a photographer).
	Anyways, I am still trying to figure out what is going on with his car.
Ever since he's had it (9 months), the car has had a reluctance to start
when warm.  If left over night, the car starts perfectly.  If it was just
run, it starts perfectly.  However, if the car is hot, and then sits for
more than 20 minutes, it cranks for about 7-10 seconds before catching; at
which point it smells the entire block up with smells of gasoline. Fun. :)
	Lately, the problem has been getting worse (as the weather has gotten
colder), and is now sometimes (very) hard to start even in the morning--
the other day it cranked for 30 seconds before it caught.
	The emissions test when he first got the car showed very high HC's (in the
150s), so I made him buy an oxygen sensor.  This brought down the HCs into
the 30s, but did nothing for the starting problem.  Then, at the command of
some of you guys, we replaced the fuel-pressure regulator doo-hickey on top
of the valve cover.  Made absolutely no difference whatsoever.
	We took it to a local mechanic, who is rather insistent that it's a leaky
injector.  I disagree-- I've never heard of a leaky injector on any German
car...  and I don't like the cost factor in that repair! :) So, I am still
here looking for another explanation.  That is the absolute last resort;
replacing the injectors.
	I do subscribe to the idea that the car is losing fuel pressure after
shut-off; that would cause Vapor Lock, which would cause hard starting
until the car is completely cooled.  Has anyone had any experience with
leaky injectors? What about the fuel pressure accumulator by the tank? And
how about a crazy coolant temperature sensor? Any tests for that?  
	I am open to any suggestions.. I would love to hear the collective advice
of 3000 people!
	In the meantime, while your brains are crunching on that problem,
something occured to me.  When Eric turns the key to "ON", his fuel pumps
don't kick on for a second or so like they do on many Bosch FI systems.  Is
this normal?  Should the pumps only click on once the engine is turning over? 
	And my last question (I promise), is related to the SI Batteries that are
mentioned on the FAQs... what the hell? Batteries? Where? And what does SI
stand for?
	Sorry for all the questions, and the long post... but Eric needs your
help! :)  Please respond to me directly as well as in the digest (if you
think it might benefit others)
	Thanks,
		Jason
		jcammisa@domain.elided

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