Rear Map Lights (Headrests coming soon) (longish)

[Chris Graff <GraffF1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi everyone,

(...as promised I'm keeping you all up to date on my progress)

Well, after some studying and figurin' I've come up with a unique
solution to the "blinding-dome/interior-light syndrome" that affects
many early E36 sedans. 

How to replace your rear C-pillar interior lights with new units that
include both map and regular interior lights and the wiring that goes
with it:

1) Check to make sure that you have the right wiring. Newer (I guess
post 96 E36's or so) have 4 wires that go to the rear interior light
assembly, early ones only have 2. The later light assembly includes a
switch and a map light in addition to the regular interior light.

2) Find yourself replacement light assemblies. (I'm going to go to my
dealer and get myself 2 for about $15 each.) Make sure you get the
so-called '98 328i assembly to make sure you get the right one.

3) Now for the logic....since I'm not an electrical expert, I decided
that I'm going to try and keep my electrical work as simple and as basic
as possible (reliability counting too!). So, after pouring over Haynes's
wiring diagram I came up with this solution to installing the lights
were NO power source existed before!

4) Tear apart the interior of the car! No I'm serious, I found that if
you connect the new rear map lights in a parallel circuit with the FRONT
interior lights, you end up with the surest and most secure way to
independently operate the two new rear map lights! The diagram looks
something like this:  (X=bulb, \=switch) (also note this is overly
simplified!

                   ___________ from power source
                   |
                ___|_____new ->_________
                |     |         |      |
                X     X         X      X
                 \     \         \      \
 from int.      |     |         |      |
light swithc    |     |         |      |
      |_________|_____|__new ->_|______|
                      |
                      |
                   beyond....

So, all you need to do is add two more wires and X's and \'s as
assemblies in parallel (it's already like that anyway) and you should
have no problem with overloads, voltage differences, etc.)

The only problem is that you have to take apart the roof to have the
wires connect from the front light assembly to the rear light assembly.


PLEASE NOTE: I've not yet done this! This is what I'm planning to do. I
don't know if it'll work or not, but according to my electronics friend,
he said there should be no problem, other than the fact that it's a lot
more work that going under the rear seat and finding a hot wire
there....etc....etc.

Now, I'd rather be sure, and copy the existing circuits, rather than
going off and doing my own thing. 



Now on to the rear headrests question......

I've not found any in the salvage yard I've been to. But I'll try
another one soon....I hope. As for buying new, only the dealer can
help...

E-mail Stephen <FLBEARCUB@domain.elided> at South Motors I beleive. (Thank you
James). He's got rear headrests and all of the parts you need for about
$87 for each side. Total $174 plus shipping. (He's got a 25% discount). 

I'm also going to copy and paste Bubba Chip I.L. Eberhart's description
on how to install the headrests because it is the best I've seen. And
not to hard when you've got the Haynes manual with you!

>1. Remove the side bolsters, they just bull out from the top.
>2. Remove the side pillar covers (where the rear reading lights are
>located), you'll have to pull back some of the door seal to get them off.
>3. If you have fold down seats, fold them down and remove the black strip
>that mates the rear shelf to the cross bar. Jason's seats don't fold down
>and we assume they'll need to be removed (should just pull out).
>4. Remove the rear parcel shelf.
>On the underside of the shelf, you'll see the markings for 4 holes. The
>biggest drill bit I could use was a 3/8" bit and I still had to file quite a
>bit off with an air tool to completely remove the centers.
>5. Don't remove too much or you'll be sorry (ask me how I know), then you'll
>have to use a glue gun to attach the plastic gaskets.
>6. The retainer springs go around the outside of the now exposed supports in
>the rear crossmember. 
>7. Place the posts into the headrest, you'll figure out which goes on which
>side.
>8. Refit the shelf and other parts.
>9. Attach the plastic gaskets.
>10. The headrest may look the same, but there is actually a left and right.
>If you install them on the wrong sides, you'll notice it when you look in
>your rearview mirror.
>11. Insert the headrests posts into the guides. (DONE)
>NOTE - These instructions are NOT the complete procedure, but enough to get
>the job done, and a LOT more than supplied with the kit. Complete procedure
>comming soon.


I've not yet done the headrests nor the lights project. For one, I only
have time to do the lights this weekend, if I can get to it. Also, I'm
going to be doing the headrests with maybe a digital camera to upload
picts to my web-site.

I'll post my results after finishing the projects later....

I hope I've helped those who needed it and thank you again to those
who've helped me.

Later...

(BTW standard disclaimers apply here!)




- -- 
:)Regards
- -Chris Graff

Middletown, New Jersey
GraffF1@domain.elided
GraffF1@domain.elided

1986 BMW M535i
BMW CCA 159803
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/5008/m_index.html
GP2 Simulation Racer ;-)

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