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Rust Removal Wrap-up

First of all, I really feel for all of you people that must deal with 
rust as a normal consequence of where you live :) I also wanted to 
send out a personal thanks to everyone, but the list is so long that I 
hope you understand when I post this to the list.  I hope it helps 
anyone else too afraid to ask such a dumb question :O

Here is what I found out:
From: [email protected]
If it's just a thin layer of surface rust, then I've had good success 
using chemicals like MetalPrep to remove the rust and condition the 
metal for priming.  It's basically a bluish or greenish acid, sold in 
most paint and body supply stores.  I know that Ditzler sells the 
stuff, I forget the number for it, though.
PPG/Ditzler is a widely known supplier of auto paints products.
I think the number is DX540 or something like that.  It's a DX and 
three digit number.  PPG/Ditzler supplies paint for GM, I believe.  I 
normally get general body supplies through them (cleaners, fillers, 
etc).  I prefer to use German paints, such as Spies-Hecker or Sikkens, 
etc.
You basically brush or wipe it on, and let it sit for a while.  If 
it's truly light rust, it'll just dissolve.  If it's heavier, then you 
may need to scrub the panel with a scouring pad or something.  
If it's heavier rust, or a structure, I've sent pieces out to be 
dipped. I used a place called RediStrip to strip the nose panel on the 
3.0CS of paint and rust (after seeing that a new one was $1200, I 
elected to repair the old one..... :) ).  They did a decent job of 
getting all the paint and rust off.
You may need to sandblast any heavy spots of rust to get rid of all 
the rust, though.  But it's not a good idea to sandblast entire 
panels.
(Then I asked Ben,)
>  What about components that have mixed metal types. For example, the
>  sunroof front mechanism looks like an aluminum air deflector mated
>  to a rusty metal fixture for mounting to the top.  I am not sure
>  they will come apart and houses the latching mechanism.  Secondly,
>  all of the sunroof bows are rusty but thin.  These kind of parts
>  suitable for professional dipping?  The engine housings and etc.
>  are easy to work with.
They can dip the part in the aluminum stripping solution, which is 
weaker than the steel solution, but gets the job done without 
disintegrating the non-steel bits.  The parts you describe sound 
suitable for dipping, but find the stripper in your area, and ask them 
to be sure.
Keep in mind that _all_ of the paint and rust, etc. will be removed, 
meaning that you'll need to get primer and paint into all the little 
nooks and crannies to keep it from rusting out again.

From: Frederik Kjeldsen <[email protected]>
I've had very good luck with Eastwood's OxySolv.  It's a resuable 
liquid you can brush on or soak in.  Not to caustic, either.

From: Steve Padilla <[email protected]> 
Naval Jelly works on ships.  You should be able to find it in a good 
hardware store.  It dissolves iron rust quite well.  I don't think it 
attacks clean metal at all, but use it with caution.

From: [email protected] (Mike LaRosa)
Yes, it called Naval Jelly, and most auto parts stores should have it.

From: [email protected]
Dip them into Coca-Cola. It works rather welll. Yves
(BTW, I tried this for some nuts, bolts, and other misc. hardware and 
it really worked well -- I was pretty surprised)

From: Jim Conforti <[email protected]>
Oxalic Acid solution (aq.) will remove (dissolve) rust 
NOTE: Oxalic acid is POISONOUS (by ingestion) .. wear gloves, be safe!

From: Colin Brace <[email protected]> 
Per your rust removal question. If these are pot-metal (also 
called "white metal") parts, I'd suggest a place in Hemmings that 
specializes in this sort of thing. Not all plating/polishing companies 
will touch pot metal. For steel parts, I've used a product from 
Eastwood called Oxy-Solv, comes in gallon & 5 gallon lots, you can 
soak the parts, or brush it on large areas. I've used it on several 
projects, including my 1973 3.0s. If you want to blast, I understand 
that plastic bead is the most gentle blasting media. A friend had good 
luck with his XKE bonnet getting it dipped at New England Metal Strip, 
who also advertise in Hemmings. If it is real heavy, outside of 
cutting the rust out & replacing with new metal, you might wish to use 
a 3m stripping wheel, commonly available in hardware stores.
Colin Brace